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When curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might foresee renowned high-end names. Yet, situated high among these culinary titans is a simple salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The accolade has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their humble shop securing such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary achievement.